We first flew into Saigon, which, like most cities in rapidly developing countries, lacks charm. It is not clean, and the air is thick with pollution. People,cars, buses, and more motorcycles than I have ever seen, press in on each other so densely that personal space is all but lost.
The first thing we had to learn upon entering Saigon is how to get around on foot. The rules of the game are different. There are few if any cross walk signs to guide you through the crowded streets: you must rely on your own ability to break through tidal wave of motorbikes that seems to never cease. It is truly a skill, and one we are still honing, though we improved rapidly in our fist days in Saigon. To safely and efficiently cross a street you must live by these three rules:
1. Walk at a consistent pace. No stopping, no backtracking, no speeding up and slowing down. All of this only serves to confuse motorists and will likely end some sort of accident.
2. Don't worry about being hit. Look where you're going, not around at all the motorcycles and cars that are almost hitting you. It's their job not to hit you and they are VERY good at it. It's your job to be consistent, and you can't be consistent if you're worried.
3. Be confident. Not only in yourself, but in the ability of the drivers to not hit you. Really, they are all quite good.
With these three rules, we have managed to avoid getting hit by a car. And, conveniently, the same rules seem to apply to riding motorcycles and bikes in Vietnam, which came in handy when we decided to do just that.